Watchmaking no doubt requires the mechanical skills needed to produce a highly functioning timepiece, but since the earliest days of watchmaking, aesthetics, too, have played an important role. Finely enameled dials, gem-set ladies timepieces and meticulously engraved watchcases are evidence of a rich past in creating functional art. Today’s craftsmen pay this sensibility forward with a modern take on such time-honored skills as enameling, gem setting, stone cutting, engraving and more. They are limited only by their imaginations and are indeed challenged to expand the boundaries of artistry. Stay tuned because each Tuesday we will be showcasing a feature from our Holiday issue about the art of watchmaking.
Having just seen and tried on possibly hundreds of fresh-from-the-workshop timepieces at SIHH 2016, I nominate these six as among my favorites—so far. As is usual for SIHH, complicated timepieces were everywhere (remember that SIHH is an acronym for Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie) and nearly every exhibitor showed at least a few deeply complex timepieces. But this year several major SIHH 2016 launches were full re-designs of heritage collections borne of time-only designs. Included among these are IWC’s pilot model re-boot, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s updated Reverso collection and Vacheron Constantin’s nicely refined, redesigned Overseas. Sure, all include a perpetual calendar within the 2016 debut series, but at their core these collections focus on hour, minutes and seconds.
Presented at the SIHH 2016, the “Drive de Cartier” collection was immediately hailed for the stylish sleek lines of its cushion-shaped case and distinctive Cartier look. With bold Roman numerals, sword-shaped hands, guilloche or flinqué dial, and blue sapphire on the winding crown, the “Drive de Cartier” is instantly recognizable as a Cartier men’s watch. This collection, made for men, comes with a new 40mm x 41mm curved case and domed sapphire crystal that are as enjoyable to touch as they are to wear. The “Drive de Cartier” watches with Date and small seconds, Large Date Retrograde Second Time Zone and Day/Night Indicator, or Flying Tourbillon, are all equipped with Manufacture movements visible through a sapphire case back.
Drive de Cartier, is a new line Cartier watches.
Drive de Cartier- Mens Only Cartier
Last January when Cartier presented the ‘Drive de Cartier‘ watches at the 2016 SIHH in Geneva, there was a lot of traffic at the Cartier booth. Almost every journalist talked amongst each other about this new watch, in the corridors. Cartier is always presenting quite a few watches at the annual show in Geneva, but it’s not every year that ‘La Maison’ launches a steel mens only model, in the main stream category. Well a mens watch ‘the Drive’ certainly is, not because of its robust dimension of 40 x 40mm, since ladies wear any size these days, but because of its masculine styling and details.
We had to wait about seven months before the second model, with Grande Date, Retrograde Second Time Zone and Day/Night Indicator, became available for review, but boy that was worth the wait! As I mentioned earlier in my article about the ‘Time Only’ model, the Drive de Cartier has quite some wrist presence, due to the large case and clean dial. That spacious dial, now gives room to some very nice and useful complications. To start with the Grande
Heists and crime stories captivate audiences and readers whether at the movies or the pages of the Sunday paper. John Dillinger, Henry Hill (Goodfellas), and Jesse James are icons for robbing banks and essentially, taking other people’s money. Although on screen it looks pretty awesome, in reality, the past – usually – catches up with perpetrators pretty quickly.
The 47mm Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon features two indications: local time in the upper section with a second time zone represented by a 24-hour disc, while below is a lunar display with a tourbillon that actually plays the role of the moon when the on-demand moonphase indicator is activated. Now with a meteorite dial and a pink gold case, this openwork model also features Cartier’s signature skeletonized and elongated Roman numerals.
This is the perfect dive watch just in time for summer for someone who doesn’t just want great design, but also wants great performance. The in-house 1904 MC powers a dive watch that stands out from the rest: the Cartier Calibre de Diver. Each one of the timepieces is tested and must demonstrate its resistance to salt water after immersion in a solution of sodium chloride at 18°C – 25°C for 24 hours.
“Is An In-House Movement In A Watch That Important?” and now, Ariel Adams and David Bredan spar over whether you should make a conservative choice or trust your instincts to get the watch you really want as your first nice watch.
Ariel Adams: When people ask me for advice about buying their first watch, while I am flattered, I feel torn in how to respond most of the time. I feel like I am telling people who to date or even marry. My inclination is to tell people to buy what they like for their first watch, but more importantly, to buy something unique and interesting as their first timepiece. People should stay away from popular, conservative models that are on many people’s wrists and don’t communicate too much about the individual wearer. Especially with someone’s first “nice watch,” they should opt for a timepiece that really says something about who they are. A watch they can look back on in the future and recall something about themselves – who they were, what they liked, and perhaps how far they’ve come.
In the coming days, you’ll be reading quite a bit about Baselworld. What is Baselworld, exactly? Why is it so important? What happens there? Can I go? For the answers to these and more questions, read on.
1. What is Baselworld? Baselworld, sometimes called the Basel Fair, is the world’s largest watch-and-jewelry trade show. For 2016, the show runs March 17 to 24th, and as you might guess, it’s in Basel, Switzerland.
In my years reviewing Cartier timepieces, I’ve mainly chosen round watches. Actually, most people who buy watches choose ones with round cases. I say this due to reviewing the Cartier Santos 100 watch was a bit left-field for me. But, it is a decision I am happy that I made because this is a timepiece with a huge amount of wrist-appeal once you actually put it on.