Bulgari Papillon Tourbillon Central Watch review
I believe this is the first time in 2015, Bvlgari debut Magic Taupi Rotary institutions central Daniel Ross brand extension, they absorbed a few years ago. Now, the rest of the Daniel Ross brand DNA is the name of the “magic”, the unique case design, and the structure of movement within the exclusive Bvlgari watch department. In other words, even though all the Daniel Ross brands have disappeared, those familiar with the watch from the past 20 years will know the origin of this model and identify the DNA. For others, this is another interesting element of the dynamic Bulgari brand.
Before speaking about the uncommon topic of central tourbillons, I’d like to for just a moment address those people who for whatever reason still dismiss brands like Bulgari as a “serious watchmaker” because the company’s logo also exists on women’s purses and fragrances. If you feel that owning a “fashion house” watch is “wrong,” then you are only as correct as the quality of the watch itself. Moreover, if you feel that you are somehow “less of a serious watch lover” for wearing anything but a timepiece from a company who exclusively produces watches and nothing else, then you are unfortunately limiting yourself from enjoying a great number of truly impressive watches. But, I digress. If you’re interested in reading more about this topic.
Italian-inspired design aesthetics and mechanics of mixed magic comes only from a carefully assembled and carefully designed Swiss caliber. Indicate the time, Bvlgari is the center of the rotating body of Taubilon is another watch, all the emotions can be caused by the simplest in how we convey information like.
When I think of successful modern analog watches which are really good at showing the time in a way that doesn’t use traditional hands I think of Urwerk. Even though the “satellite” concept of how their watches indicate the time isn’t new, it is easily the most impressive rendering of the “wandering hour hand” concept. The beauty in said Urwerk watches is that they challenge the notion that time indicated in an analog manner is most efficiently done with three hands. They bring up a legitimate question as to whether or not that method of displaying the time can be improved upon.
The undeniable practice of manipulating analog dials through time continuous linear motion is not only valid from the standpoint of legibility, but is also very effective because fewer parts of the machine need to do much less. So experimenting with how to play the concept of how to display time, such as the Urwerk watch or Bulgari’s magic will always be more complex, so the more exotic and expensive.
The reason I keep mentioning Urwerk is that while the Bulgari Papillon Tourbillon Central does not function in the same manner, the operation of the minute hand is sort of similar. This isn’t the first Papillon watch around, as I stated earlier, as it pre-dated the Bulgari name on the dial, but this is the first time I recall it being moved a bit more to the periphery of the dial versus being right in the center.
Such a Bulgari magic Taubilon rotating mechanism center, two hands alternately display minutes forming a semicircle along the bottom part of the track turntable. The hands are rotated in place when used, when the last minute size reaches the level of rotation, on the other hand take over. This prevents the need for a jumping retrograde hand – this will only increase the movement of wear to all jumps. The solution shows minutes both elegant and smart.
My only complaint is the fact that Bulgari decided to go with a mirror-finish for the hands which renders them difficult to see in various lighting situations on the dial. Making these already smaller hands for the minutes a bit more conspicuous would have been a good idea. Perhaps in the future, though, as Bulgari is only producing a total of 40 pieces of the Papillon Tourbillon Central.
The Bulgari Papillon Tourbillon Central’s next quirk is in how it indicates the hours. Here we have a jumping hour mechanism which displays the hours in 24-hour format via a window at 12 o’clock. I am actually not sure I am aware of any jumping hour watches of this nature which prefer a 24-hour versus 12-hour format as it requires an even bigger disc to place all the numerals on.
Then comes the addition of the central tourbillon, which of course doubles as the running seconds indicator. The movement inside of the Bulgari Papillon (“butterfly” in French) Tourbillon Central has a power reserve indicator on it, which is visible through the rear of the watch. Once again, I really appreciate the power reserve indicator manual wound wristwatch and agree to put their movement in many cases the best option.
You may not have thought about it, but when was the last time you saw a tourbillon-based watch where the tourbillon was in the center of the dial? There are other examples of this complication out there, but it is rare. You have avant-garde brands like Haldimann that have watches that literally forego the time altogether and just have a tourbillon in the center, but you also have Omega, that actually still produces central tourbillon watches today in very limited numbers. In fact, Omega was so fascinated by the notion of a centrally-mounted tourbillon that they made it the cornerstone of their entire ultra-luxury segment of watches.
The central tourbillon is difficult to find, because of the simple reality, it makes the drive and wheel design more challenging. Obviously, a person can not easily focus on installing the hands of the hours and minutes if there is a rotating body of the Tabor. Of course, the solution to this problem at the center of the Bulgari Magic Taubilon rotation mechanism is the Papillon-style minutes indicator and the time-hopping function indicator.
Visually, it is difficult to deny the aesthetic appeal of a centrally mounted tourbillon. Given that your eyes are typically immediately attracted to the center of a watch, you instantly get the sensual pleasure of viewing the tourbillon spinning in action. Despite the fact that the luxury value of tourbillons is getting a bit played out, the core visceral sensation of watching them in action is no less real now than it was when the regulation-style complication was actually a lot more exclusive.
In the center of the Bulgari Magic Taubilon rotating mechanism is their inner caliber BVL 266 years hand-wound movement. The mechanism operates at 3 Hz (21600 bph) with a decent power reserve for 60 hours. According to Bulgari, pointing out that in a particular system, Bulgari Magic Touribllon Central does not need a lot of energy. It is a good sport that may be subject to its too modern decoration after the situation.
It looks cool, but the mostly machine-cut decoration and dark gray finishing limit the feeling of it being something produced by someone’s hands. Further, there is a very limited amount of discernible hand-finishing, even though I know their factory is more than capable of it.
On paper, the “Daniel Roth” Papillon case, which is like a mixture between a round and tonneau case, should not be comfortable especially given its unorthodox and 11.9mm-thick case design and 45mm-wide size. Yet, these figures can be deceiving, as on the wrist the Bulgari Papillon Central Tourbillon is surprisingly comfortable and really quite attractive. If anything, the reason such a novel case design is still around, even though it struggles to find a good place in the Bulgari portfolio (finding mere mention of this watch – or any Papillon model – on the brand’s website is a huge pain), is because of just how comfortable it is, and how unique yet elegant is appears on the wrist.
Bulgari produces two limited-edition versions of the Bulgari Papillon Central Tourbillon. The less limited version was produced as a set of 30 pieces in 18k pink gold. This is the 950 platinum version, which was produced as a limited edition of just 10 pieces.